Why Build Your Own Arcade Cabinet?
Pre-built arcade cabinets do exist — from mini plug-and-play units to full-size commercial replicas — but nothing compares to building your own. A DIY cabinet lets you choose exactly which games to include, customize the artwork, pick your preferred control layout, and create something genuinely personal. It's also a rewarding project that combines woodworking, electronics, and a love of gaming history.
This guide is aimed at beginners and covers the core decisions you'll need to make before picking up a tool.
Step 1: Choose Your Cabinet Type
There are three main formats to consider:
- Full upright cabinet — The classic stand-up arcade machine. Impressive, authentic, but requires significant space (roughly 2ft × 2ft footprint, 5–6ft tall).
- Bartop cabinet — Sits on a table or countertop. More compact and beginner-friendly. A popular choice for first builds.
- Cocktail cabinet — Horizontal table-style with the screen facing up. Great for two-player games and doubles as furniture.
For most first-time builders, a bartop cabinet is the recommended starting point. It's smaller, cheaper to build, and still delivers the authentic arcade feel.
Step 2: Choose Your Hardware (The "Guts")
Modern DIY arcade builds typically use one of three hardware approaches:
| Option | Cost | Ease of Setup | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Raspberry Pi 4 | Low (~$50–80) | Medium | Retro games up to PS1 era |
| Mini PC (Intel NUC style) | Medium ($150–300) | Medium | More demanding emulation |
| Dedicated PC build | High ($300+) | Complex | Full emulation + PC gaming |
For most retro arcade builds covering systems up to the PlayStation 1 era, a Raspberry Pi 4 running RetroPie or Batocera is the sweet spot of cost, simplicity, and performance.
Step 3: Controls Matter Most
The control panel is the soul of your cabinet. Invest here. Key components include:
- Joystick — Sanwa JLF and Seimitsu LS-32 are industry-standard Japanese joysticks. American-style bats (like IL Eurostick) suit classic titles like Pac-Man.
- Buttons — Sanwa OBSF-30 buttons are the gold standard for feel and durability.
- Encoder board — A USB encoder (like the Zero Delay board) connects your controls to the computer and is recognized as a standard gamepad.
Plan your button layout based on the games you'll play most. A 6-button layout covers Street Fighter-style games. An 8-button layout adds versatility for modern titles.
Step 4: The Cabinet Build
Most bartop cabinets are built from 3/4" MDF (medium-density fiberboard) — affordable, easy to cut, and takes paint and vinyl wraps well. You can find free cabinet plans online from communities like ArcadeControls.com, which hosts decades of community-tested designs.
Basic tools you'll need: a jigsaw or circular saw, drill, clamps, sandpaper, and wood glue or screws. If you don't have a workshop, many local makerspaces will have what you need.
Step 5: Finishing Touches
This is where your cabinet gets its personality:
- Paint or vinyl wrap the exterior (custom printed artwork is available from online suppliers).
- Add a marquee light behind a printed header panel for the authentic glow.
- Install a monitor — a 19"–24" 16:9 or 4:3 display depending on your preference.
- Add a coin door for authenticity (fully optional, but enormously satisfying).
Getting Started
The arcade cabinet building community is welcoming and well-documented. Communities like r/cade on Reddit and the ArcadeControls forums are invaluable resources for every step of the process. Start with a bartop, keep your scope manageable, and you'll have a working machine before you know it.